Aging tea in citrus is a tradition passed down by the Hakka people, or “guest families”, from generation to generation, following the cycle of tea and citrus harvests throughout the year. The Hakka are a people of no one particular provenance, but rather a broad diaspora of families and their descendants who left their homes in the north to settle in Southern China, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, bringing seeds and saplings to new soils.

It is just such an enclave, on the western coast of Taiwan, that is home to our Hakka Pomelo Oolong, made by an octogenarian matriarch who, while warm and maternal, holds the secret of her craft close.

This tea is produced using spring-picked qing xin cultivar that is oxidized and roasted in Miaoli, just north of Taichung, then held until fall’s pomelo bounty makes the trees bow with ripe fruit. The citrus are harvested during the mid-autumn festival, when family gathers together to hollow the rinds of the fruit, mix the fruit pulp with tea before repacking both inside the citrus rind. They then steam, press, sun-dry, and bake the bundles of fruit and tea together.

Each finished fruit appears like a small package, tightly wrapped and hiding something wonderful within. Ten years is the minimum aging for this type of pomelo tea, but ours are even older. Choose from a 20-year version, mellowed and matured in flavor as its aged, easing off its initial tangy notes, and transcending into a brew that is rich and layered. Or opt for the 30-year iteration, where you’ll find a hint of funkiness has crept in, adding intrigue and enjoyment to each brew. With either version, whole pomelos should be placed in a small linen bag and split open with a strong hammer stroke. Long considered an aid in digestion and vitality, these medicinal qualities are said to increase with time.

The bright, clean-taste of Hakka Aged Pomelo lasts over days of steeping. Brew rind and leaves together in gently simmering water, and continue to enjoy across the week. We keep our tea steeping in a glass pot in the refrigerator.

Song’s aged Hakka Pomelo Oolong is a Lunar New Year exclusive and available in whole fruit portions, and as a set of broken fruit tea and rind featuring 40g of each vintage. All are presented in a bright, limited edition Year of the Horse box. May each steaming cup bring fortune and favor to you during the coming year!